Find a Licensed Roofer

What a Roofer Does (and What They Don't)

A roofer installs, repairs, and replaces your roof system. That system includes more than shingles. It includes the decking (the plywood layer under everything), the underlayment (a waterproof barrier like synthetic felt or ice-and-water shield), flashing around chimneys, vents, skylights, and walls, drip edge along the eaves and rakes, ridge vents or other ventilation components, and the finish material itself—whether that's asphalt shingles, metal panels, clay tiles, or flat-roof membrane like TPO or EPDM.

A competent roofer handles tear-off of old materials down to the deck, inspects the decking for rot or damage, replaces compromised plywood (typically 1/2-inch CDX at $35–$55 per sheet installed), installs new underlayment, applies flashing with proper step-and-counter technique, and lays finish roofing to manufacturer specifications so your warranty actually holds up. They also handle cleanup, including magnetic sweeps for nails in your yard and driveway.

What a Roofer Won't Do

Roofers typically do not handle structural framing. If your rafters or trusses are cracked, sagging, or undersized, you need a framing carpenter or structural engineer. If you have mold in your attic from years of poor ventilation, that's a mold remediation company—not your roofer. Gutter installation is sometimes offered as an add-on, but seamless aluminum gutters are usually done by a dedicated gutter contractor with an on-site forming machine. Solar panel installation requires a licensed solar contractor, even if it involves roof penetrations. Chimney masonry—tuckpointing, crown repair, full rebuild—belongs to a mason, not your roofer. Your roofer may flash around a chimney, but they should not be rebuilding the chimney itself.

When You Need a Specialty Contractor

If your roof involves slate (natural or synthetic), clay or concrete tile, standing-seam copper, or a commercial flat-roof system (built-up roofing, PVC, or modified bitumen), find a roofer who specializes in that exact material. A shingle roofer installing a slate roof is how you end up replacing a $45,000 installation in 8 years instead of 75. Material-specific certification matters—GAF Master Elite, CertainTeed SELECT ShingleMaster, or manufacturer-specific metal roofing credentials mean the installer has been trained and audited. Only about 2% of roofing contractors in the U.S. hold GAF Master Elite status, and that designation comes with an extended warranty option worth having.

How to Find, Vet, and Hire the Right Roofer

Step 1: Build a List of 4–6 Candidates

Start with referrals from neighbors who've had work done in the past 3 years—roofs age fast, so a recommendation from 2009 tells you nothing. Check your manufacturer of choice (GAF, Owens Corning, CertainTeed) for their certified contractor locator tools. Look at local roofing supply houses like ABC Supply or Beacon—they know which contractors pay their bills on time and buy quality materials, and they'll often give you 2–3 names. Avoid sorting by Google Ads. Storm-chaser companies spend $30,000+ per month on pay-per-click advertising in hail-prone markets, and they'll be two states away by the time your leak starts.

Step 2: Verify Licensing

Forty-one states require some form of roofing contractor license or registration. Go to your state's contractor licensing board website and search by company name and license number. In Florida, that's the DBPR (Department of Business and Professional Regulation). In California, it's the CSLB (Contractors State License Board). Confirm the license is active, not expired or suspended. Check the name on the license against the name on the business card. It's common for unlicensed operators to "work under" someone else's license illegally.

Step 3: Verify Insurance—Yourself

Do not accept a photocopy of an insurance certificate. Call the insurance company directly and ask three things: Is the policy active today? What is the general liability coverage limit (minimum $1 million per occurrence)? Does the contractor carry workers' compensation? If a roofer's employee falls off your roof and there's no workers' comp, you can be held liable. Your homeowners insurance may deny the claim. In Texas, workers' comp is not required by law, but you should still require it contractually.

Step 4: Get Written Quotes with Line Items

Get a minimum of 3 written estimates. Each estimate should itemize: tear-off and disposal cost, number of squares of roofing (1 square = 100 square feet), material brand and product line (e.g., GAF Timberline HDZ, not just "architectural shingles"), underlayment type, flashing details, number of plywood sheets anticipated for replacement, ventilation changes, and a line for permits. If a roofer gives you a single lump-sum number with no breakdown, walk away. That's how you discover mid-job that ice-and-water shield in the valleys was "extra." A typical 30-square roof (3,000 sq ft) replacement with architectural shingles runs $9,000–$16,000 depending on your market, roof complexity (hips, valleys, dormers), and number of layers to tear off. A simple gable roof in the Midwest averages $8,500–$11,000. A complex, steep, multi-hip roof in the Northeast or Pacific Northwest can hit $18,000–$22,000.

Step 5: Evaluate the Contract

Your contract should include: start date and estimated completion date, payment schedule (never more than 10%–15% down; 40%–50% at material delivery is reasonable; final payment upon completion and your inspection), a written warranty covering both materials and workmanship (manufacturer warranty is separate from the roofer's labor warranty—get both in writing), a clause requiring the contractor to pull all necessary permits, a lien waiver provision so subcontractors and suppliers can't lien your home for the roofer's unpaid bills, and a clear scope of work matching the line-item estimate.

Specific Questions to Ask Every Candidate

• Who will be the on-site crew foreman, and will I have their phone number?
• How many roofing jobs does your company run simultaneously? (More than 5–6 at a time for a mid-sized company means thin supervision.)
• Will you use a dumpster or a dump trailer, and where will it be placed?
• What is your process if you find unexpected rot in the decking? (The answer should be: they stop, show you, agree on a per-sheet price, and document it.)
• Do you install ice-and-water shield in all valleys, around all penetrations, and along eaves per code? (In cold climates, IRC code R905.1.2 requires ice barrier membrane from the eave edge to at least 24 inches inside the exterior wall line.)
• What is your workmanship warranty term? (Good companies offer 10 years minimum. Some offer 25-year or lifetime labor warranties backed by the manufacturer if they hold the right certification.)

What to Expect During the Job

Day of Arrival

A professional crew shows up between 7:00 and 7:30 a.m. They set up tarps around the foundation to catch debris, position the dumpster within throwing range of the roof edge, and lay plywood or protective boards over your air conditioning condenser, landscaping, and any hardscape. They run a walk-around of the property before starting tear-off so they can document pre-existing conditions—if your siding already had a dent, they want that recorded before 80-pound bundles of shingles start coming down. They should also set up ladder stabilizers and tie-off points. No harnesses on a 7/12 or steeper pitch is an OSHA violation (any roof above 6 feet requires fall protection per OSHA 1926.501).

Typical Timeline by Job Type

• Full tear-off and re-roof (30 squares, single layer, moderate complexity): 1–3 days with a 4–6 person crew.
• Full tear-off with 2 existing layers, decking replacement needed: 3–5 days.
• Minor repair (pipe boot replacement, small flashing fix, 10–20 missing shingles): 2–4 hours.
• Flat roof overlay or replacement (1,500 sq ft commercial): 3–5 days depending on membrane type.
• Metal roof installation (standing seam, 25 squares): 5–8 days due to precise panel fabrication and fastening.

Good vs Bad Workmanship: What to Spot

Good workmanship means straight shingle lines visible from the ground, uniform overhang at the drip edge (typically 1/2 to 3/4 inch), flashing that's counter-flashed with step flashing at every course against a wall, no exposed nails on the field of the roof, and pipe boots sealed with a proper rubber gasket—not just a blob of roofing cement. Bad workmanship shows up as wavy shingle lines, visible tar patches, improperly nailed shingles (high nailing above the manufacturer's nail line voids the warranty), missing kick-out flashing where the roof meets a sidewall above a gutter, and ridge cap shingles installed with only 2 nails instead of the required 4. Manufacturers like GAF specify 4 nails per cap shingle; failing to comply voids the warranty even if you paid for one.

Permits

Most municipalities require a building permit for a full roof replacement. Permit costs range from $150 to $500 depending on your jurisdiction. The permit triggers a final inspection by the building department, which protects you—the inspector verifies code compliance, proper ventilation ratios (1 sq ft of net free ventilation per 150 sq ft of attic floor, or 1:300 with balanced intake and exhaust), and correct fastener patterns. If your roofer says "we don't need a permit" for a full replacement, that's a red flag. Unpermitted work can create problems when you sell your home, and it gives your insurance company grounds to deny a future claim.

How to Save Money Without Getting Burned

Time Your Project for the Off-Season

Roofing demand peaks from May through October in most markets. If you schedule your replacement in late winter or early spring (February–April), many contractors offer 5%–12% discounts to keep crews working. On a $12,000 job, that's $600–$1,440 in savings. Asphalt shingles can be installed in temperatures as low as 40°F if the installer hand-seals each tab, and most manufacturers approve installation down to that threshold.

Bundle Work

If you also need gutters, soffit, or fascia work, bundling with the roofing job saves on mobilization costs (setup, teardown, dumpster rental). Dumpster rental alone runs $350–$600 per drop in most metro areas. Combining jobs means one dumpster, one setup, one permit—expect to save 8%–15% versus contracting each item separately.

Choose Materials Strategically

Moving from a premium designer shingle (GAF Grand Canyon, $180–$220/square for material) to a standard architectural shingle (GAF Timberline HDZ, $95–$120/square) saves $2,500–$3,500 on a 30-square roof with virtually no difference in wind rating (both rated 130 mph) or functional lifespan. The visual difference is real but modest from the ground. Skip the upgrade unless curb appeal is your top priority. Conversely, do not downgrade underlayment—synthetic underlayment costs $10–$15 more per square than 15-lb felt and lasts dramatically longer if rain hits your exposed deck mid-install.

Negotiate Smart, Not Cheap

Don't negotiate the per-square labor rate—you'll get a crew that rushes. Instead, negotiate payment terms (offer to pay 50% at material delivery and 50% at completion instead of thirds—it reduces the contractor's financing risk), ask if there's a discount for paying by check instead of credit card (credit card processing fees are 2.5%–3.5%, and many contractors will pass that savings to you), and ask if they'll match a competitor's price on the same spec. Most reputable contractors will come within 3%–5% of a legitimate competing bid rather than lose the job.

What Homeowners Insurance Covers

Covered Scenarios

Standard HO-3 homeowners policies cover roof damage caused by named perils: wind, hail, fire, falling trees, and lightning. If a storm rips off shingles or hail dents your metal roof, your insurer should cover the cost of repair or replacement minus your deductible. Deductibles for wind and hail are often percentage-based (1%–5% of your dwelling coverage), not a flat dollar amount. On a home insured for $350,000 with a 2% wind/hail deductible, you're paying the first $7,000 out of pocket.

Not Covered

Insurance does not cover wear and tear, deferred maintenance, or gradual deterioration. If your roof is leaking because it's 22 years old and the shingles are cupping and cracking, that's a maintenance issue—not a covered loss. Cosmetic damage policies are increasingly common: your insurer pays to fix functional damage (actual leaks) but not dented shingles or panels that still perform. Flood damage to your roof is excluded from standard homeowners policies; you need a separate NFIP or private flood policy.

How to Document and File a Claim

After a storm, photograph all visible damage from the ground and, if safe, from a ladder. Document the date and type of storm event. Contact your insurance company within 24–72 hours—waiting weeks raises adjuster suspicion. Get your own independent inspection from a licensed roofer before the adjuster arrives so you have a professional damage assessment to compare against the adjuster's report. Do not sign an Assignment of Benefits (AOB) form—it transfers your claim rights to the roofer and is banned or restricted in multiple states (Florida banned it in 2023). If the adjuster's estimate is low, you have the right to invoke the appraisal clause in your policy and hire a public adjuster (they typically charge 10%–15% of the claim payout).

DIY vs Hiring a Roofer: The Honest Assessment

What You Can DIY Legally and Safely

You can replace a cracked or missing shingle on a low-slope section (4/12 pitch or less) if you're comfortable on a ladder and the repair involves fewer than 10 shingles. You can seal a pipe boot with a rubber collar replacement ($8–$15 at any home improvement store) as a temporary fix. You can clean and inspect your roof from a ladder, clear debris from valleys, and apply roof sealant to a minor flashing separation as a stopgap. In most jurisdictions, homeowners can pull their own building permits for roof work on their primary residence—but you become the general contractor, which means you're liable for code compliance and worker safety.

What You Should Not DIY

A full tear-off and replacement is not a DIY job. You're working at height with heavy materials (a bundle of shingles weighs 60–80 lbs), power nailers, and potential structural hazards like rotted decking that can collapse under your weight. Falls from roofs account for roughly one-third of all fall fatalities in construction, per OSHA data. Improper installation voids manufacturer warranties—every major shingle manufacturer requires installation by a qualified contractor for warranty coverage. Flat roof systems (TPO, EPDM, PVC) require heat-welded seams and specialized equipment. Tile and slate require cutting tools, breakage expertise, and weight-distribution knowledge (clay tile weighs 9–12 lbs per sq ft vs 2.5–4 lbs for asphalt).

Permits

Most municipalities require a permit for any roof replacement or structural repair. Some exempt minor repairs involving less than 100 sq ft or one square of material, but rules vary by jurisdiction. Always check with your local building department before starting any roof work. Performing unpermitted work can result in fines ($200–$2,000+ depending on locality), forced removal and reinstallation, and complications with your title when selling your home.